Pula, Croatia

Sitting at the tip of the Istrian peninsula 


Pula is the largest city on the Croatian part of the Istrian peninsula, and its major landmark is the Arena, the 1st century Roman amphitheatre. It's one of six large Roman arenas that are still in existence and the only one with all 4 side towers. It's very impressive to see, seeing it as a child I was more impressed with it than the Colosseum in Rome since the Arena was more intact. It's still used today for concerts, there's a museum section underground with some artefacts from the local area. 


It's incredibly well preserved even considering the locals used some of its stone for local building projects!



Pula, then known as Pola was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and it flourished during those years as it was the major port, as well as the base for their navy. Captain Von Trapp of the Sound of Music fame was stationed in Pola. With the breakup of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I, Pola became part of Italy. It was after World War II when it became part of what was known as Yugoslavia that the city was called Pula. Both Pola and Pula are used today.

The town square.

The Temple of Augustus.

The Temple of Augustus can be found in the town square. It had originally been one of three temples, it stood to the left of the main temple (which doesn't exist anymore) and the Temple of Diana, the back part of which can be seen in the back of the Communal Palace (the City Council building) on the right. The Temple of Augustus was built to honour the Roman Emperor Augustus and it was built during his lifetime, which was between 27BC and 14 AD. It had been badly damaged during the bombing raids of World War II but restored by two Italian stonemasons after the war. 

The local tourist office is located in the town square so I was able to go in and ask for a map and some advice on what to see on a day trip to Pula. Having already gone to see the Arena, I was shown a walking route around the old part of the town that would loop back to the square. Perfect!

Pula Cathedral, the oldest part of it dates back to the 5th century, the facade was added in 1715. The Bell Tower was added around that time, using some stone from the amphitheatre!


I walked around the old town, in the centre (up the hill!) is the Pula Fortress, the Kaštel, it was built during the time the Venetians controlled the town. Another building with bits of stone from the amphitheatre. It's now a Museum of Istria and you can get some great views of the surrounding area from the tower.


My favourite statue is one of James Joyce walking across the bridge at Ponte Rosso in Trieste. James Joyce lived in Trieste a number of years, teaching English there. The statue has such a natural pose that it appeals to me, well, it seems it has a rival in Pula! James Joyce also spent a few months in Pula, (which was part of Austria, along with Trieste at the time), he taught English, mainly to the Austrians from the naval base. His Pula statue he's even more relaxed sitting at an outdoor cafe!


The Arch of the Sergii, also built in the 1st century. The age that monuments can be found in Europe still astounds me, what has survived is amazing. The Arch was built to commemorate the victory at the Battle of Actium for the Sergio brothers. They belonged to an important family from the area and ended up with a monument that has lasted 2,000 years! The arch leads to the town square, so it's towards the end of the circular loop.

Pula, has a number of museums, an aquarian located in an old Austro-Hungarian era fortress, as well as the Brijuni islands. The largest of the islands became a popular destination for the Viennese upper classes at the beginning of the 20th century, there were hotels, a casino, a yacht harbour, restaurants, even Austrian royals holidayed there. The resort floundered under Italy, and under Yugoslavia the island became the private summer residence of Marshall Tito. The islands were off limits to the local population, with the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991, under Croatia, the islands were opened and the resorts on the largest island were reopened. The islands have again become popular holiday destination.

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